Copenhagen 2016, pt. 1

Once upon a time, Copenhagen was my home. Over four years have passed since my six-month exchange in the happiest place on earth, but my love for this magical city is still as strong as ever. This past spring marked my fifth time in Copenhagen, and I had a ten day vacation planned with nothing on my itinerary except to enjoy the city like a local. 

My sister and I rented a flat on Ægirsgade, a quiet, residential street in outer Nørrebro only a few minutes walk from Superkilen park and Nørrebro Station. A quintessentially Danish abode, the apartment was filled with token Danish accessories: Royal Copenhagen contrast mugs, mid-century modern teakwood chairs, and classic Danish art, posters, and novels. It was the perfect Scandinavian dwelling for our ten days in wonderful Copenhagen.

Our first few days in Copenhagen we spent re-exploring the city; enjoying old favourites and searching for new ones. The Friday we arrived, we stuck to what we knew in Nørrebro: drinks at Mikkeller & Friends on Stefansgade, dinner at the Laundromat Cafe (always good), and a concert at Rust, my favourite nightclub in Copenhagen. As the weekend progressed, we expanded our horizons outside of our usual, checking out all the new and exciting spots that have opened over the past few years. These included: Heimdalsgade 22, a cafe-meets-record shop on the Superkilen stretch; Illum Rooftop, an expansive rooftop terrace overlooking Strøget, Copenhagen's pedestrian shopping street; and Brus, a new microbrewery and restaurant on Guldbergsgade, among many others.

We ate well this time around in Copenhagen too, checking out a number of restaurants on my wish list. Sadly, I will probably never eat at noma, but I take comfort in the fact that I witnessed René Redzepi water his microgreens outside his restaurant - I still regret not saying hello. Bæst was first on our list: located across from Brus on Guldbergsgade, Bæst is an Italian, all-organic restaurant serving delicious cured meats and wood-fired pizzas. We ate at Spise\Bar 20 on Rantzausgade with our Danish family, enjoying an extravagant spread of authentic, Mediterranean-inspired fare. Breakfast at Møller's Kaffe og Køkken was a unique experience: rated the best breakfast in town, you are given a menu with individual breakfast items to check off, and every single thing is heavenly. I highly suggest ordering the sourdough and rye bread combo with the homemade Nutella. 

Louisiana Museum of Modern Art

On our way home from Helsingør, we visited the Louisiana Museum of Modern Art. Located approximately thirty minutes north of Copenhagen in the peaceful town of Humlebæk, Louisiana is one of the world's most visited art museums. During my studies in Copenhagen, I came here often and I've tried to make it into a habit for whenever I'm back. On my last visit, I was lucky enough to see Olafur Eliasson's critically acclaimed Riverbed installation a few days before it ended. It was an unforgettable experience.

Louisiana is known for its dynamic and well-researched exhibitions. The new Eye Attack: Op Art and Kinetic Art and Illumination: New Contemporary Art at Louisiana exhibits were both running during my visit, featuring works by Op Art pioneer Victor Vasarely and the legendary Ai Wei Wei, respectively. As always, they exceeded my expectations. Louisiana's extensive permanent collections are just as impressive; my favourites include the Giacometti Gallery, Asger Jorn's work, and Gleaming Lights of the Soulsan ephemeral, and introspective art installation by Yayoi Kusama. 

What makes Louisiana unique is the fact that it is more than just an art museum: it's an escape from the city. The museum is situated directly on the Øresund coast, offering panoramic views of the ocean all year round. The museum grounds feature a Sculpture Park, where installation and sculpture are either juxtaposed against or immersed within the lush vegetation of the natural landscape. Architecturally, Louisiana is a modernist's dream, designed to link architecture, nature, and art together through Danish modernism. As you meander through the seven different wings, you can see, feel, and experience how the museum's natural surroundings influenced the design. With arguably the best museum gift shop in the world, the Louisiana Museum of Modern Art is a definitive must-see when in Copenhagen.

Louisiana Museum of Modern Art
Gl Strandvej 13
3050 Humlebæk
Denmark